January 31, 2025

How about a monolight?

This whole idea came out of nowhere, then expanded to consume the known universe. Sort of. It started like this. I am using my Canon 580ex speedlight as a flash for mineral photography. I get annoyed at having to find, charge, and replace batteries. It runs on AA batteries, but NiMH work -- some of the time, given luck. It uses four of them, so I start thinking -- that is 6 volts. I could open this thing up, solder a short cable to a barrel connector and feed it 6 volts from a wall wart.

So there is the seed of the idea. You may be clever and eager to remind me that this flash has a connector to allow it to be used from an external power source. This is true, but that external source is expected to deliver 300 volts DC! The 3 pins are ground (in the middle), a signal to "turn on" said course, and the 300 volts. The packs typically used for this hang on a strap and a carried around by the wedding photographer who uses them. Directly supplying 300 volts allows shorter cycle times than feeding 6 volts and using the switching supply in the speedlight itself.

Having set that idea aside, we get back to the 6 volt idea. You certainly could do that. I was doing some searching and found a discussion about such a job and several people jumped in to say, "it would be far better to just buy a small monolight and away we go.

A monolight is otherwise known as a "studio flash". Every pro photographer (who works in a studio) owns several and there are many brands and varieties. And for studio work there are light stands, softboxes, and a myriad of "lighting modifiers" that these studio dudes know all about. This is a well trodden field.

Which one

This could turn into a book. I started making a table (on paper) and some of the things to consider are:

A chat with a guy at BH

After I spent a couple of days reading and looking at specs, I called BH photo. They urge you to do this, so I did. My conversation yielded several things: He hinted that the Godox lights are not consistent (other than the QT series), whereas the other makes (often based in Europe) are, and the others have support offices in the USA, while Godox leaves you on their own.

I like the Godox lights because they are cheap ($109 for the MS200 and $139 for the SK300). I am willing to view something that cheap as disposable.

So, why a monolight?

Two reasons: Cycle times range from 0.1 to 1.5 or 1.8 seconds depending on the power level selected. I would use such a light in manual mode and not be overly concerned with remote control. The Godox lights have an LED modeling light, which I think could be hugely convenient.

My 580ex weighs 1.2 pounds.
The Godox MS200 weighs 2.9 pounds.
The Godox SK300 weighs 4.4 pounds.

Amazingly most of these lights can be radio controlled. Even the cheapest Godox unit, the MS200.

As a side note, if I knew what I knew now, I would never by a Canon speedlight. They are undeniably a quality item, but my (now obsolete) 580ex that cost $440 when new has no radio control. It does have the terrible Canon IR remote system. If you go to buy their next flagship speedlight, the 600ex (also now obsolete), you get radio control, but it is still powered with AA batteries. The current flagship is the EL-1, priced at a sobering $1100 !! Holy Cow.

Consider instead the Godox V860 for $179 along with their X2T-C (C for Canon) radio trigger instead. You could buy two of these lights and the trigger for not much over $400, less than half the price of the Canon EL-1.

Back to monolights, which one?

I am tempted to just buy the MS200 for $109 and give it a try. I can learn some things, and perhaps it will be the price of education, and I can learn enough to guide the purchase of something better, should that even be necessary.

I ask another question. Will this be too much light? I am now using my 580ex at 1/32 power. It has a GN of near 200. The MS200 has a GN of 174, and can be run at 1/32 to full. This sounds promising. My macro lenses have no diaphragm that I can use to control light. So my control is either speedlight power or ISO. I am now shooting at ISO 400 with 1/32 power. So, I can reduce the ISO to 100 on my Canon R5 giving me 2 stops of reduction. Actually I might as well shoot at ISO 100 and bump the flash power up if needed.

What about our candidates?

The Alien Bees B400 was the first monolight I heard about at $245.
It includes a 7 inch silver reflector. They claim 6 stop control (5 Ws to 160 Ws) via a slider -- full to 1/32 adjustment. 0.5 second cycle time. Flash is 1/1600 at full power, 1/3000 at 1/32 power It uses a 150 Watt incandescent bulb. They say you can use a dimmable LED bulb. 8.5x8x6 inches and weighs 2.5 pounds And you get a 15 foot sync cord. No built in radio control. This is a 160 Ws light with a guide number of 118 feet at full power. Important to note is that this is a 160 Ws unit, not a 400 as the model number might imply. This is good for what I intend to do. Compare the guide number of 118 to the 191 quoted for my 580ex speedlight. However the 580ex guide number is a bit of a deception. this value is with the flash zoomed to 200mm, with it at 50mm the guide number is 97 at full power.

And now, what about that Godox MS200-V unit for $109?
You have to buy your own reflector to put on the Bowens mount. ($13, see below) You get control from full to 1/32 (6 stops like the AB B400). Cycle time is 0.1 to 1.8 seconds. This is a 200 Ws light with a guide number of 174. You get an LED modeling light (a 10W led), which I like The unit is 11x7x5 inches, and weighs 2.9 pounds.

A nice plus with the MS200 is that you get their 2.4 Ghz radio control built in.

So we purchase the MS200

Hard to go wrong for $115 with the reflector. Here is a nice video: The video taught me a lot of things. This light has a lot of features for the price. I see packages selling the MS200 with the X2T-C Canon specific remote, so it must work with them! The video shows a XPro-N remote being used (the trigger for the Nikon).

Both a X2T-C ($59) and XPro-C ($69) are available. The X2T has a hotshoe, the XPro has a bigger display. And to further complicate things there is an XProII-C for $89. The "Pro" units let you see 5 groups at once, but if you don't need that, you don't need the big display. The Pro lets you shoot a first TTL, then lock in whatever that did as manual settings -- they call this "TCM" (TTL convert to manual). The II adds bluetooth (which the X2T has, but the original Pro did not). With this you can control all the flash settings from your cell phone.

Look for the Godox Flash App on Google Play.

Other candidates

Right alongside the Alien Bees B400 is the Elinchrom RX One for $265. They call it a "compact D-Lite". It is a 100 Ws unit controllable from 1/16 to full. (6 Ws to 100 Ws). Guide number of 128 feet (39 m). Cycles in 0.45 to 2.1 seconds. 2.2 pounds and 7x8x11 inches. It has what looks like an integrated reflector. Elinchrom is Swiss. It offers their EL Skyport control and it has a tungsten modeling bulb. It is twice the price of the MS200, but may offer a higher level of quality. Frankly, after the MS200, my nex choices would be the Alien Bees B400 or the Elinchrom Rx One. Godox SK400II-V $169 400 Ws GN 213 only 1/16 to full power 4.4 pounds
Godox SK300II-V $139 300 Ws GN 190 only 1/16 to full power 4.4 pounds
Godox DP400III-V $219 400 Ws GN 284 1/64 to full power 6.2 pounds

Of the above, I favor the DP400 because it offers the 7 stop control down to 1/64, but it is twice the weight of the MS200.

Godox also makes the AD200 you hear a lot about, but it is $349 and powered from a 14.4 volt battery. So it makes no sense for me at it is more of a super speedlight than a studio strobe.
If you want to go that route, go whole hog with the Westcott FJ400 $600 400 Ws 9 stop (1.56 Ws to 400 Ws) 0.9 sec cycle time 5.3 pounds -- from a 29.6 volt Li-ion battery. Not really what I am looking for.


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Tom's Computer Info / [email protected]